Atelier Cologne’s Rose Anonyme

I’ve been meaning to review this perfume for a while now. I’m glad I’m finally sharing it with you. If you’re not familiar with the concept of Atelier Cologne, this niche fragrance house creates light, airy perfumes within the cologne genre but with the concentration and lasting power of perfume. They have also just come out with Vetiver Fatal which also deserves some recognition. 

I had an instant connection with Rose Anonyme, mainly because the oud note was prevalent from the very beginning. It’s not the kind of oud that overpowers, but rather hangs back in the shadows and gets noticed periodically as it pops back up. 

The Turkish rose absolute is so so good. I’ve been in a rose-rediscovery phase and I’ve been leaning into perfumes that use the natural absolutes rather than reconstitutions. They are pretty genius in their own right, but there’s nothing like that honeyed-dark, deep Rose. Turkish rose is one of my favourites actually, I’ve used it plenty in my own formulae. 

There was a wetness a few minutes into having Rose Anonyme on my skin. At first, I wasn’t sure how I felt about it, but it grew on me. It was almost like the scent had to create a wet film in order to dry and give room for more ingredients. As the wetness subsides (which I think is probably the ginger playing around with the remnants of the rose leading into the Indian papyrus), the incense and patchouli blend and the oud reappears. This is my favourite part. The combination of the three create a sticky sweet smoke, earthy…reminiscent of the Middle East. Benzoin plays its role perfectly here. 

Above average sillage, stronger towards the end actually. Wonderful tenacity. 

Perfect for autumn, winter or when you’re wearing mustard yellow. Does that make sense?

The evolution of this perfume is wise beyond its years, its grows to become something. This helps the wearer, in my case at least, feel a sense of experience, a change. Certain perfumes come into your life, like songs, at a specific time, when needed. Rose Anonyme holds true to that. 

Ingredients for Rose Anonyme: Calabrian Bergamot, Ginger, Turkish Rose, Incense from Somalia, Indian Papyrus, Oud, Benzoin from Laos, Indonesian Patchouli. 

If you live in Montreal, you can find the entire collection sold at Sephora Sainte Catherine or at Etiket. You can also find Atelier Cologne on Sephora.com, Luckyscent, at Neiman Marcus and many other points of sale. 

Shout out to Ross Barry and Gerard Camme from Atelier Cologne for introducing me to this gem! 

Le Labo’s Gaiac 10. 

While at Sniffa earlier this Fall, I was on a mission to go to Le Labo. I had to choose between going to the newly renovated Diptyque or missing a good chunk of the Sephora Sensorium just so I could make it to this store!

So I walked, really fast, through Soho (the one neighbourhood I always get lost in) towards Elizabeth street. Thankfully, I wasn’t alone-  I had met a super outgoing Vegas-based perfumer called Vilma (You can find her here), who told me about her life over there and we tackled finding this place together. 

So we finally find this teeny store, with just a print on the cement outside the door to identify it. 

As we walked in, I was truly touched by such a simple yet inviting space. The guy behind the counter, Isaac was his name I believe, was incredibly helpful. We smelled almost everything including Neroli 36, Oud 27 (surprisingly not too overpowering), Ambrette 9 was just too good for words and the City Exclusives were a treat. We were allowed only one sample each, so I went nuts and tried to smell whatever I could find in the store, for the fear of missing out on the next big thing.

As I was discovering the store, customers would walk in with empty bottles and would have a new batch reblended for them. I remember how impressed I was with the personalized feel Le Labo offers - while I was there and when I posted another perfume of the week for Rose 31 earlier this year. People keep coming back! They love that one perfume, and they get it redone, by hand! This is some excellent customer service. 

There were jars of precious raw materials lined against the walls, there were old school leather seats in the back, cluttered files, organized vials. It looked like a place I would like to see everyday, it was almost as if I were exactly in my element (and I didn’t want to leave.)

So, all this to say, I found my way to Gaiac 10, one of the City Exclusives - representing Tokyo. This collection includes Tubereuse 40 (New York - very well put together, my second choice), Poivre 23 (London), Musc 25 (LA - didn’t get a chance to smell this but will be ordering it for sure), Vanille 44 (Paris), Baies Rose 26 (Chicago) and Aldehyde 44 (Dallas).

Gaiac 10 starts off with a hint of sweetness on my skin. It gets a little more ‘sec’ or dry but not in the way that it tickles your nose (the cedar works its magic here.) The incense is SO good, and if you read all my mumbo jumbo, you’ll know that I’m obsessed with it. 

Now onto the Guaiacwood. Found in Paraguay, it is steam distilled into the oil that is used today. Apparently, the trunk is made into 25% powder and 75% water (so when it is used in pure, it has a gooey texture, and needs attention.) It is a strong, characteristic base note. It is one of my favourite ingredients in perfumery because it is versatile, powerful and can give a fragrance the kick it so desperately needs. The fact that it has a delicious smoky facet doesn’t hurt either, who doesn’t like the smell of burning wood on the fire? 

So in the end, it was a pretty easy choice for me. I was so excited to see a perfume revolving around Guaiacwood. It is done well, it is tenacious, and just really riveting. The fact that it was made with the imaginative Annick Menardo gives it that extra oomph. It changes on your skin, but not in the way that it is no longer recognizable, but more that it matures, so it changes into different versions of itself. Therefore, keeping the main character of the fragrance but still making it interesting for the wearer. 

Gaiac 10 has notes of olibanum, guaiacwood, cedar absolute and a blend of musks. 

Well done Le Labo, I love you, I really do. 

I was planning on reviewing Tom Ford’s Santal Blush, since it was new and to my knowledge not available everywhere (I loved the top note but disliked it more and more as it dried down: too much cumin for my taste.) BUT one of my very best friends came back from a soul-searching trip to Europe, with a gift in hand. She, and in knowing me, bought the perfect present: a set of perfume samples. From Divine, a small, humble, (yet distinct with class and originality) set of creations made by Yvon Mouchel. I know the collection has been around for a while, but this is the first time I have had the privilege of smelling his creations. (Brace yourselves, this is going to be a long one!)

L’inspiratice caught my eye at the mere glance of the word. I loved it instantly. The more I wore it though, the more I kept comparing it to something very similar: Boisé Torride by Guerlain, a part of their Elixir Charnel special collection. It is a little sweeter than the latter, and less woody, but the comparison is still there. Not to say that I don’t still enjoy it though! It works really well on my skin, the more I wear it, the more I like it and it has great sillage. It has notes of bergamot, rose, ylang-ylang, peony, vanilla, tonka bean, vetiver, white musk and patchouli. 

Then we go on to L’âme soeur, meaning ‘soulmate’. The aldehydes at the departure are quite strong, but not overpowering. On the skin, the aldehydes almost smell like johnson & johnson’s baby shampoo. So, clean, crisp with a hint of soapy. I don’t smell the jasmine as much as I smell the rose, and I was pleasantly surprised to see liatrix listed as one of the ingredients in the flavour text (since I was under the impression that it was no longer allowed to be used.) L’âme soeur has aldehydes, jasmine, Bulgarian otto rose, ylang-ylang, ambergris and liatrix.

L’être aimé (pour Femme) is super interesting. It is warm, rich and absolutely mysterious. It is introduced as ‘a poem to the everlasting flower’. In perfumery, this is also known as immortelle (found in the ambery family). I didn’t find it too diffusive on my skin but the top note is delicious. I even smell a hint of olive oil, which plays very well into the Mediterranean theme of the perfume. It is really hard to create a good immortelle accord, but this one is refined and quite original. The notes listed are bergamot, neroli, nectarine, jasmine, lily, rose, and everlasting flowers. In the base, you find amber and exotic woods, cistus (brings the warmth together), sandalwood, vetiver and a hint of vanilla.

L’infante is innocent, and a little bubbly, It is a fresh floral, perfect for summer. At first, I was expecting it to be a little too ‘young’, but the blackcurrant leaves give it a sophisticated charm and the ivy gives it a slightly green, slightly metallic depth. I would say it’s good to wear on a outdoors date of some kind. L’infante has ylang-ylang, chinese jasmine, pivoine (peony), blackcurrant leaves, ivy, ambergris, vanilla, tonka bean and musk. 

Now onto the masculine fragrances..

L’homme de coeur is a very masculine iris scent. It starts off very fresh, and quite aromatic. The combination of the juniper berries, angelica and cypress is fantastic. The iris is obvious right away, and a carrot note almost comes out. Which isn’t at all surprising because carrot oil and orris absolute (in my opinion) have a similar quality. A confident man should wear this, and will get many compliments. L’homme de coeur has notes of angelica, juniper berries, cypress, woods, amber, vetiver, ambergris, liatrix and musk. 

L’être aimé (pour Homme) didn’t float my boat as much as it’s feminine counterpart. The celery note was too overpowering, and although the everlasting flower is supposed to be the star, I smell more ‘salty’ than anything else. It is more culinary than olfactory I find. It has notes of bergamot, tincture of lavender, ginger, basil, celery, cardamom, everlasting flowers. In the base, amber and exotic woods, cistus, patchouli, sandalwood and vetiver. 

L’homme sage is absolutely irresistible! I love love love it. It would make a man seem instantly more attractive, and even though it’s not for women, I’ve worn it, and so has my roommate. It’s that good! It has that classic quality you can find in the old YSL or Hermes perfumes for men. It is woody enough for a manly man and interesting enough for a business man. It gives a younger man that extra oomph and an older man the refinement that comes with an aged wine.  It’s a must-have. L’homme sage has notes of saffron, mandarin, cardamom and lychee, aromatic woods, everlasting flowers, patchouli, oakmoss, amber and incense. (yum)

Eau divine is the eau de cologne of the collection. It’s refreshing but not as attention grabbing as the other perfumes in the collection. I’m also probably biased because I don’t usually enjoy eau de colognes, I lean towards heavier perfumes in general. It is super fresh; cucumber cool. It has notes of italian citrus (assuming bergamot and lemon oil here), star anise (which I don’t smell all that much), rose hip, ginger, nutmeg, orange flower, sweet violet, white amber, ‘hot’ musk, and labdanum. I also smell a hint of thyme or something to that effect. This can absolutely be a unisex fragrance.

And finally, Divine. A fruity floral, smells like it has a hint of aldehydes but it is not listed. I find it a little old fashioned, it has the peach note similar to that of Mitsouko (one of my favourite classics). It is undeniably classy though, very chic. I would say it is definitely more of a feminine fragrance than a masculine, but I wouldn’t be opposed to trying it on someone else’s skin actually (why not?) Divine has fruity peach note, coriander, unspecified florals, oakmoss, musk and vanilla. Out of all the creations, I would say this was the most traditional, yet still effective as a perfume, and very well put together. 

The first thing I thought when I smelled the collection, was ‘quality’. That truly makes everything better, knowing that many of the perfumes were created by the great Yann Vasnier, just made it so much better!

I thoroughly enjoyed the whole thing because I knew that these perfumes became popular due to word of mouth. What better way to introduce your creations than by letting them speak for themselves?

You can find the perfumes on luckyscent.

Soleil by Fragonard.

Let me tell you a little story. About thirteen years ago, my parents decided to take my brother and I to France. My aunt had lived in Paris for many many years and it was time for a visit. We ended up going to the South shortly afterwards. We visited Nice, Biot (a little town not too far away, known for glass-making) and Grasse. The rest as they say, is history.

We visited the Fragonard factory where my mother bought me my first perfume. A teeny 10ml vial of Soleil. The sun has been an important symbol in my life; I have always loved being by the sea because the sunset had an undeniable power over me. I prefer heat to cold (Montreal in the summer is out of this world, totally worth sticking out the cold months for) and when I was much much younger, at kindergarten, each child had a locker with a symbol, and mine was the sun.

I have truly never forgotten the scent of Soleil. It stuck with me for years and felt like it was meant to be on my skin. I kept coming back to it as my go-to scent.

Around three years ago, I graduated from university and was not satisfied with what I had graduated with. So I read, and I read a lot. One of my best friends decided to share Jitterbug Perfume with me, and it changed my life. I then proceeded to read The Alchemist, which just further proved that there was something better out there for me. I ended up getting another bottle of Soleil in the mail, and everything just clicked!

How could I remember a moment like that so clearly, even though it happened so long ago? I remembered the Jasmine, the Wisteria, the beautiful Rose and the fresh Lily. I was brought back to Grasse instantly, and so, I decided to go back, find myself and pursue my new-found yet undying love for perfume. 

It is a definitive floral, but it has such depth that it really does bring sunshine into my life. I feel instantly better when I wear it, so it’s a no-brainer to make it the perfume of the week, and personally; my signature scent.

It is hard to find Fragonard products across the pond, but there are ways to get them online. Out of all their perfumes (and maybe I’m totally biased) Soleil is the best one. It is an accurate depiction of the South of France; vibrant, colourful, beautifully golden and full of life. Many people believe it is a generic scent, made for the mass market, with no definite single note. I actually think that the unity within the ingredients makes it that much more special. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, right?

Soleil is an Eau de Parfum, with above average sillage and great tenacity. Who doesn’t love that left-over-on-your-clothes smell? This stuff lasts!

You can find it on www.fourseasonsproducts.com (that is where I prefer to buy it)

Or if you ever get a chance to visit Grasse, the Fragonard Museum and factory are a must see.               

Kyoto - Comme des Garçons (Series 3 Collection: Incense)

During my studies in France, I had a love affair with incense, I used it in many of my creations, including my final perfume for the year. Maybe because I was in an environment where this particular material wasn’t used often. Or the fact that the scent of incense has been so powerful in my life, while most people instantly remember a church, I remember the Middle East. So I was deliriously happy to see an entire collection inspired by a love for incense.                                                                                                      

If you’re not familiar with Comme des Garçons, they are a Japanese fashion label, who have boldly and successfully immersed themselves in the perfume world. They are so niche, that people who buy their perfumes have particular taste. That’s why I love them, because they create things you want to create in your head but are too worried about what everyone else will think. Their creations are avant garde and completely intriguing.

So here comes Kyoto. I myself do not have enough of an understanding of the Japanese culture. I am always interested but should learn more, especially after their recent turmoil. Kyoto is a whirlwind, it is my gateway into the culture I do not know. It twirls and changes just like smoke does. Imagine incense burning, the shapes formed in the air by the smoke, some parts are thin, some parts are thick. The lines created, the curves that move as a gust of wind goes by. That’s Kyoto. It’s changes but in such a way, that some parts go and come back.                                                                                                                                                                                                                      

At first I smell the cypress; so damn crisp. I smell a hint of sour which I always associate with vetiver. Then it moves, it gets slightly sweeter, almost more humid. The coffee and the teakwood work so well together, as if this is a moment where you have to wait and see what comes next. Standing still and appreciating the warmth. Then comes the freaking incense. Wow. Sharp, dull, moving, still, it’s everything you would want incense to be. There is an almost medicinal quality, probably because of the cypress coming back that gives you a healing feeling. The contrast between the damp patchouli which works very well below the other ingredients, and the incense which somehow layers above it all (almost like a veil of smoke) is perfect.                                                                            

It comes as no surprise that the perfumer behind this is the great Bertrand Duchaufour. A mastermind. He created Avignon for the same incense collection and many perfumes for L’Artisan Parfumeur, where he is a resident perfumer. He is also behind creations such as Amaranthine for Penhaligon’s among many many others. (More about him later!)

Here are a few more Comme des Garçons perfumes that are worth mentioning:

The first perfume launched by them in 1994, Original Comme des Garçons.

Wonderwood (yes, this is all about wood and it is to die for)

Odeur 53: completely modern, out of the box, and damn cool. This is everything I have always wanted to create, just to see if I could.

2: INK! Entirely inspired by Sumi Ink. I’m in love.

You can find parts of their collection at Holt Renfrew in Montreal. You can also buy all their creations on LuckyScent. I actually have the bottle because a friend (with impeccable taste in perfume) was kind enough to lend it to me.

Rose 31 - Le Labo

I’d like to start by introducing you to Le Labo. Their concept is simple; make perfumes inspired around one natural essence. The numbers on each bottle represent the amount of ingredients in the perfume. The labels on the bottles show you that a lot of hard work has been put into the process and you’re invited to see how. Also, each order is blended upon request, so everything is fresh and made just for you. It is such a thoughtful, personalized idea, and it works every time.

There are three main types of Rose Absolutes used in perfumery. Rose from Bulgaria, Morocco and Turkey. Each are similar, but have different attributes that distinguish them. Bulgarian Rose is the sweetest for me, more honeyed. To tell the difference, I usually have to look for a metallic artichoke note in Turkish Rose and finally, the Moroccan Rose is a blend of both with a greener facet.

There is one more Rose Absolute, but it is used far less than the others as it is very expensive, Rose de Mai, from Grasse. This is the stuff used in Rose 31. There is nothing like it. I got a chance to visit the Chanel Rose Gardens not too far from Grasse, right in-season. There is such a difference, so the fact that Le Labo make sure to use such top-notch ingredients, just proves their quality and exclusivity.

(Annual Rose Festival in Grasse)

                  (Rose de Mai)

This is meant for men, it defies all expectations because the Rose is almost entirely transformed. I wore this for myself since Luckyscent suggested it could be unisex, and it works. It’s dark, it’s fun (the cumin pops at the strangest moment, and is warmly welcomed), it is spicy and daring. As soon as I put it on my skin, I could instantly smell the smokiness of the Guaiacwood and the sharpness of the Olibanum. The cumin warms my skin right up..you would think it was getting me ready for the base. I am transported back to the Arabian Gulf, the woods are remarkably masculine, aged and very well put together. This is not at all a typical Rose fragrance and I love it. It is really hard to make anything new out of Rose Absolute only because it is probably the most used flower in perfumery (Jasmine too), so the fact that this is a complete 180 from what we’re usually used to, is a great surprise.

It is wonderful to see collaborations between creative people like this. Classic ingredients are being used in a new and inspiring way. I’m really pleased there are more places like Le Labo, where there is a focus on pure artistry and on the wearer who buys the creations. A relationship is formed, and I’m hooked. I’m really looking forward to see what they come up with next!

p.s I got my sample from Luckyscent, here. I also have Patchouli 24 (incredible) and Jasmin 17 (if you love Neroli, this is totally for you.)

Idole de Lubin.

I haven’t been very familiar with the other Lubin creations, but I’m working on it! This particular fragrance is not for everyone, and I’ve been seeing a lot of ‘meh’-like attitude towards it.

I personally love it.

1. I can’t make the association without thinking of my dear friend Ashley who loves amber (she also has Idole in her collection)

2. I’ve never been to Zanzibar, or Madagascar, but it’s part of the dream to do so. This brings me a step closer. Not because of the notes composed, but by where it takes me when I wear it. I find that Idole has this rich quality, one which somehow smells like life. I smell experience, there is heaviness and there is lightness. Perfectly blended; telling a story.

That’s all thanks to Olivia Giacobetti (who’s actually the creative director at Lubin now.) I find her very crisp in her creations. She’s made a ton of stuff for L’Artisan Parfumeur, so I’ve been lucky enough to smell one after the other.

3. How cool is that bottle?? Serge Mansau did a fantastic job of bringing the perfect colours together to enhance this scent.

Even though this is a masculine perfume, many women, including myself enjoy it thoroughly. There is a bitterness that is perfectly in harmony with the rum notes. Sometimes I even get a hint of coca-cola (and I LOVE it, super sweet+super salty=BANG!)

It’s comfortable, it’s layered, and it’s soothing to the point where you feel confident to wear it as a woman. Just because you feel like you have more substance somehow, there’s more than what the eyes can see, it’s what the nose can look for, find, and appreciate.

The notes are as follows:

Rum Absolute, Saffron (yay!), Bitter Orange, Black Cumin, Doum palm (the fruits sort of taste like gingerbread) Smoked Ebony, Sugar Cane (delicious), leather and sandalwood.

I got my sample from Luckyscent, but this is definitely on my wish list. I can’t wait to have it be part of my collection soon!

Feminité du Bois. A Queen of the Classics.

Created in 1992 by Pierre Bourdon and the amazing Christopher Sheldrake of Serge Lutens.

This perfume has been reviewed many times over, it’s been tremendously popular because of it’s first-time use of a high level of cedarwood. It is also a total masterpiece.

It has had quite the journey, since it was first created as a Shiseido product then moved over to become a part of the very special ‘Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido’ collection. Unfortunately, it’s scent has changed since it’s inception, probably because of the IFRA standards. It’s intensity, especially in terms of the level of woods, has changed, it’s slightly softer and has a hint more of musk (It’s still damn good though)

FdB is a very ‘in the moment’ type of fragrance for me. It’s linear, which in the industry, means that it has many facets that you can smell at once, that it doesn’t change from top note to base note in that usual order. It’s a good, strong block of scent in a way. I find it very existential actually, as soon as you put it on, things sort of stop.

Why? Well, it’s such a complex fragrance, yet it’s easily understood, for me anyway. I have so many memories of the Middle East and this perfume brings those back. It’s got its deep woods, it’s fruity plum note, the hint of violet that blends with your skin so perfectly, sometimes you forget it’s there. I get so enamored because I feel instantly more feminine, more confident, that I somehow have more substance. It’s ironic considering that this was one the first perfumes to carry a strong wood note which was mostly used in masculine fragrances.

I find it commands a certain amount of attention but not to the point that it overwhelms the wearer or anyone else. The woody facet is brought out by an aroma chemical called Iso E Super (is that the coolest name for an ingredient, or what?) It doesn’t necessarily smell like much, like a mix of woods really, nothing specific, but when used with natural woods for example, it brings out its best qualities.

So go check it out, if only to know what it smells like, I promise it’s worth it. This is one I’m going to keep going back to, no matter what. Feels good to have it be part of my collection.

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